Kail, as Scots call their dark green curly kale, is the national vegetable, grown in several varieties and used as a primary ingredient in a number of nourishing simple dishes. Generally boiled and seasoned with butter, it is often combined with oats or with mashed potatoes, onion, and milk as well as other vegetables.

At one time kail was an everyday term for a meal. "Will ye come and tak' your kail wi' me?" was an invitation for supper or dinner. Kail-time was supper-time.

This is a typical Highland recipe. It's a good accompaniment for meat or poultry.

• 1/4 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup sliced scallions, with some pale green tops
• 2 pounds fresh kale, washed, stemmed and chopped
• 3/4 cup meat or vegetable broth or water
• salt, freshly ground pepper
• 1/4 cup light cream or milk

Spread oats in a medium ungreased skillet. Toast over medium-high heat, stirring two or three times, until edges are golden, about three minutes. Remove from heat; cool.

In a medium heavy saucepan melt butter over medium high heat. Add scallions; sauté two minutes. Add kale leaves and broth or water. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, covered, stirring once or twice, until kale is tender, about 12 minutes. Add cream or milk. Serve sprinkled with toasted oats. Six servings.